Taking care of a spa may sound technical, but it’s really about creating lasting moments. At Shym Saunas & Spas, Artem Filipovskiy started with a simple goal: build cosy spaces that bring family and friends together. A reliable hot tub makes those moments possible.
This hot tub troubleshooting guide helps you fix common issues—jets, heating, water quality and power issues, recognise when to call a professional, and keep your spa safe for family and friends. We’ve tailored it for Australian readers by focusing on electric hot tubs, local water conditions and safety regulations.
IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: Water balance targets and safety requirements aren’t one-size-fits-all. They can differ depending on your location, local council rules, your water supply, and the specific spa you own. Use this guide as a starting point, but always default to your manufacturer’s manual and local requirements—especially for electrical work and child-safety barriers.
Key Takeaways
- Regular maintenance and balanced water chemistry prevent most hot tub problems. Keep filters clean, check pH levels often, and adjust chemicals promptly.
- Electrical issues are common. Always switch off power before inspecting your spa. If your hot tub has power but won’t turn on, check the breaker, inspect the control panel and, if in doubt, call a licensed electrician.
- Many spa issues can be fixed at home: clean clogged jets, top up low water levels and reset heaters before calling for help. Never ignore error codes on electric models.
- When troubleshooting becomes complex (e.g., persistent leaks, repeated heater failures or electrical faults), hire a professional to ensure safety and protect your warranty.
5 Common Hot Tub Problems and Quick Fixes
Hot tubs are fairly simple machines, which is good news when something goes wrong. Most issues—weak jets, heating problems, cloudy water or a noisy pump—come down to water level, flow, or basic maintenance. Before you assume the worst (or call a technician), work through these quick checks. They’re easy, safe, and often enough to get your spa back to doing what it’s meant to do: helping you relax.
(1) Weak or surging jets
Jets that sputter or feel weak usually point to simple issues. Make sure the water level is above the jets; low water allows air to enter the plumbing and breaks pressure. Clean your filters and remove debris from intake grates.
Sometimes spa owners accidentally close air‑control valves—check that they are open. If the problem persists, inspect the jet faces for calcium build‑up and clean them with white vinegar. Never use a plunger, as it can damage plumbing.
(2) Spa won’t heat
Nothing is more disappointing than cold water. Start with the obvious: check that your breaker is on, that your spa is filled to the recommended level and that your filter isn’t clogged. Reset the heater by turning it off and on at the breaker or using the control panel.
After refilling, bleed any trapped air by loosening the pump union slightly until water flows steadily. A bad heating element can also cause cold water. Testing this component requires a multimeter; if you’re uncomfortable, contact a licensed electrician. In Australia, spa heaters operate on high voltage, so safety comes first.
(3) Error codes on control panels
Modern hot tubs often display codes such as FLO, OH or ICE:
- FLO usually signals restricted flow—check the filter and water level.
- OH means your tub has overheated; allow it to cool and clean the filters.
- ICE alerts you that the water temperature is too low; activate your freeze protection mode if available.
Always refer to the owner’s manual for codes specific to your model. If the panel is unresponsive, try powering the tub off for thirty seconds. Persistent error messages require professional support.
(4) Cloudy, foamy or smelly water
Water problems are common but easily managed. Cloudiness often indicates dirty filters or imbalanced chemicals.
Rinse or replace filters and test the water using strips. Adjust sanitiser, alkalinity and pH according to manufacturer guidelines. Foamy water usually results from body oils, cosmetics or detergents.
Ask bathers to shower before using the spa and consider adding enzyme‑based products to remove oils. Bad smells point to bacteria; shock the water and ensure proper sanitiser levels. In Australia, heat and humidity can accelerate water issues, so check water chemistry weekly, even if you don’t use your tub often.
(5) Noisy pumps or vibrating equipment
A growling or squealing pump often points to restricted flow or wear in the motor/seals. Confirm valves are open, the water level is high enough, and the filter isn’t clogged (low water can cause cavitation and noise). Vibrations are often as simple as a loose union or mounting screw—check fittings for snugness.
If you’re getting a high-pitched squeal, it’s usually a sign the bearings or shaft seal are on their way out. Pump motors typically use self-lubricating bearings, so the fix is usually service or replacement rather than “oiling” anything. If the noise doesn’t settle quickly, book a spa tech to avoid a bigger failure.
Also Read: Cedar Hot Tub Maintenance – Cleaning Tips for Wood‑Fired & Electric Tubs
Electric Hot Tub Troubleshooting Guide

Electric faults are the ones you don’t “hack your way through.” When a breaker trips, the panel won’t light up, or the pumps refuse to run, take it as a sign to slow down and troubleshoot methodically. The checks below help you rule out the obvious first, then draw a clear line on when it’s time to switch everything off and call a licensed sparky or authorised spa tech.
Circuit breaker trips repeatedly
All electric spas should run on RCD (safety switch) protection to reduce shock risk (typically 30 mA). If the safety switch or circuit breaker trips repeatedly, treat it as a real fault rather than a nuisance. Reset once at the switchboard.
- If your spa plugs into a power point, unplug the spa and any other plug-in devices on the same outlet/circuit, then reset and reconnect one item at a time. If it holds until a particular device is connected, you’ve likely found what’s triggering the trip.
- If the RCD keeps tripping (or you notice moisture/corrosion around an outdoor power point), switch the spa off and get a licensed electrician to check the power point, cabling and equipment pack.
Control panel is blank
When the display is black but the power is on, start with the simple solutions: ensure that the remote is paired and within range, and recharge the panel if it has a battery. Some models have a panel lock; hold down the designated button to unlock.
If none of these work, turn off the spa at the mains and wait thirty seconds before restarting. Persistent blank screens can indicate a broken control board and require professional service.
Spa powers on but jets and lights won’t work
This situation can be frustrating.
- First, confirm that child locks or economy modes are not engaged.
- Inspect fuse blocks and relays inside the spa’s control pack—blown fuses cut power to pumps and lights. If fuses are intact, a faulty transformer or bad relay could be the issue.
Because hot tubs combine water and electricity, Australian safety laws recommend that any work inside the control pack (wiring, relays, transformers and heaters) is best handled by licensed electricians or authorised spa technicians. Never bypass safety devices to get your spa running.
Preventing electrical problems
- Install weatherproof covers on outdoor outlets and route all cords away from foot traffic.
- Check your spa’s wiring annually for signs of wear, such as cracks, heat damage or exposed copper.
- Ensure that power cords are sized correctly for the amp draw of your tub; undersized cables generate heat and can fail prematurely.
- Investing in a surge protector can also protect sensitive electronics from lightning strikes and power surges common during Australian summer storms.
Also Read: In‑Ground vs Above‑Ground Hot Tub: Finding the Perfect Fit for Your Backyard Oasis
Hot Tub Has Power but Won’t Turn On
This specific issue often arises after electrical storms or long periods of inactivity. Here’s a step‑by‑step guide:
- Check the breaker and RCD. Even if lights are on, a partially tripped breaker may cut power to the spa’s control board. Switch the breaker fully off and on again. Reset the residual current device (RCD) as well.
- Inspect the control panel fuse. Many tubs have a small fuse behind the front panel. Replace it with the exact same rating if it’s blown.
- Listen for pump noise. If you hear a hum, power is reaching the pump but it may be seized. Turn off the breaker and try spinning the motor shaft manually. If it turns freely, the capacitor might be bad. Replace it if you’re comfortable; otherwise, contact a professional.
- Examine the door switch. Check safety interlocks. Depending on the model, a flow/pressure switch, high-limit sensor, or an access-panel interlock can prevent startup if it’s misreading conditions. If it looks like the issue is inside the control pack, stop here and book a licensed electrician or spa technician.
- Call a professional. If you’ve tried these steps and your hot tub still refuses to start, hire a licensed electrician or spa technician. Australian wiring standards are strict, and DIY electrical work could void your warranty and be dangerous.
Hot Tub Troubleshooting Guide for Australians

Australian climate and water conditions introduce unique challenges. High ambient temperatures accelerate chemical depletion, and heavy rains can dilute sanitiser levels quickly. Here’s how to adapt your maintenance routine:
Adjusting for local water quality
In some parts of Australia, mineral-heavy water can speed up scale on heaters and jets. A pre-filter on the hose can help when filling, and keeping calcium hardness in your recommended range reduces that chalky build-up. If scale keeps returning, a scale inhibitor and slightly more frequent drain/refills can make maintenance far easier.
Coping with heatwaves
In summer, your spa may overheat even without the heater running.
- Leave the cover partially open during the hottest part of the day to release heat.
- Switching the spa to economy mode reduces the heating cycle.
- Some owners add shade sails or pergolas to protect the tub from direct sun.
- For cold snaps in southern states, insulate your tub well and use a thermal cover to retain heat.
Dealing with drought restrictions
Water conservation is important. Keep water clean to extend its life and reuse drained water on gardens if allowed (check local council guidelines). When topping up, measure and record how much water you add; small consistent top‑ups maintain water quality without wasting resources.
Following Australian safety regulations
In Australia, hot tubs are generally treated as “spa pools,” so the basics are familiar. Australian installation and safety rules can vary by state, but the essentials are consistent:
- follow your spa’s installation manual
- use RCD (safety switch) protection
- avoid extension leads, and
- get a licensed electrician for any hard-wired connection or work inside the control pack
For plug-in models, use a weatherproof, RCD-protected outdoor power point and keep the plug and lead dry and off the ground (skip extension leads).
For child safety, check your local council/certifier requirements—many rules treat spas (and anything that can hold more than 300 mm of water) like swimming pools. In NSW, some spa pools can use a lockable child-safe lid/structure instead of a fence, while swim spas and plunge pools are often treated differently.
Also Read: Internal vs. External Hot Tub Stoves: Which Is Right for You?
Hot Tub Water Quality and Chemical Balance

Maintaining crystal‑clear water keeps bathers safe and protects your spa equipment.
Essential chemistry parameters
In general:
- Sanitiser: Aim for free chlorine around 2–4 ppm (closer to 3 ppm when the spa is warm or getting lots of use) or bromine around 4–8 ppm (6 ppm being the ideal level), depending on temperature. Bromine holds up well in hot water and stays steadier over long soaks.
- pH: 7.2–7.8, with 7.5 a comfortable sweet spot for bathers and good sanitiser performance. Low pH is acidic and corrodes metal parts; high pH causes scale and cloudiness.
- Total Alkalinity: 80–120 ppm. Alkalinity stabilises pH, so adjust it before correcting pH.
- Calcium Hardness: Keep it in your spa manufacturer’s recommended range (many acrylic spas sit around 150–250 ppm). Too low can cause foaming and wear; too high can drive scale.
Test before you soak and after top-ups or heavy rain; at a minimum, check a few times a week (daily is ideal when the spa is in regular use).
Balance alkalinity first, then pH, then sanitiser. Never add chemicals while anyone is in the water, and give them at least 30 minutes to circulate before soaking. Use only spa-specific chemicals—pool products can be too strong for acrylic shells.
Removing contaminants
- Shower before you soak to reduce body oils and lotions. Encourage guests to do the same.
- Use scum‑absorbing devices or spa discs to capture oils floating on the surface.
- Shock the water every two weeks or after heavy use to oxidise organic waste.
Draining and refilling
Even with good chemistry, dissolved solids build up over time and the water starts to feel “tired.” As a guide, a full drain and refill every three to four months keeps most home spas feeling fresh (sooner with heavy use), or you can do a partial change by replacing around a third of the water every three to four weeks. Give the shell a quick wipe while it’s empty, then refill with mains water and run circulation for a bit before your next soak.
In drought-prone regions, plan refills around local restrictions. If you’re reusing drained water on the garden, stick to non-edible plants and only if the sanitiser has dropped and local rules allow it.
Also Read: 7 Efficient Ways to Heat Your Hot Tub Faster
Hot Tub Preventive Maintenance and Care

Routine care extends the life of your spa and keeps it safe.
Clean and replace filters
- Rinse cartridge filters with a hose every two weeks and deep clean them monthly using a filter cleaner.
- Replace filters every twelve to eighteen months, or sooner if they lose their shape.
Dirty filters reduce water flow, strain pumps and cause heater failures.
Inspect covers and seals
Your spa cover keeps heat in and debris out.
- Wipe it down with mild soap and water monthly, and treat vinyl covers with UV protectant to prevent cracking.
- Replace water‑logged or torn covers.
- Check seals around jets and lights for leaks and tighten fittings gently to avoid overtightening.
Maintain pumps and jets
- Run your spa pumps regularly, even if you don’t use the tub often. Circulation prevents stagnation and keeps seals lubricated.
- Lubricate O‑rings with silicone grease when servicing.
- Check for unusual noises or vibrations and address them quickly.
Winterising your hot tub
In cooler parts of Australia, winterising your spa protects it from damage.
- Drain water thoroughly, including lines and pumps, to prevent freezing.
- Use a wet/dry vacuum to blow out remaining water.
- Remove and store filters in a dry place.
- Loosely replace the cover to keep debris out.
- Alternatively, run the spa at a lower temperature through winter and ensure sufficient insulation.
When to Call a Professional
Many issues are manageable, but some require expert help:
- Repeated electrical faults: If breakers trip continuously or wiring feels warm, switch off power and call an electrician.
- Persistent leaks: Water under your spa can come from plumbing, pumps or the shell. Finding the source often involves removing side panels and foam insulation; a pro can do this without damaging the spa.
- Control board problems: Replacing relays, sensors or circuit boards involves handling high voltage. This work is not DIY.
- Warranty considerations: Repairs undertaken by unlicensed individuals may void your warranty. Always read your documentation and follow the manufacturer’s service advice.
Shym Saunas & Spas Product Recommendations
Consider these options as you care for your spa:
Shym Saunas & Spas carries a curated range of cedar hot tubs, simple add-ons, and accessories that make day-to-day spa care feel effortless.
Consider these options as you care for your spa:
- Outdoor Cedar Hot Tub With Electric Heater – A set-and-soak option with the essentials built in: electric heating, pump, circulation, filtration and a cover to help hold temperature and keep debris out.
- Outdoor Cedar Hot Tub With External Firewood Heater – For a more traditional soak, this wood-fired setup pairs the ritual of firewood heating with practical circulation and filtration, plus a cover for heat retention between sessions.
- Cube 1–2 person Stainless steel Hot Tub – A sleek, small-space option with a stainless-steel body, cover, and premium American Alder lining. It’s designed for quick, efficient heating and doubles nicely as a hot soak or cold plunge depending on the season.
- Deluxe Hot Tub Tray Table – A handy perch for drinks, towels or testing gear so the little things stay within reach (and out of the water).
- Cedar Hot Tub Tray Shelf – A clean, minimal cedar shelf that keeps spa-side essentials organised without cluttering your steps or surrounding area.
These products align with Shym’s focus on wellness, craftsmanship and simple functionality. They aren’t essential for every fix, but they support long‑term maintenance and comfort.
Also Read: The Ultimate Hot Tub Buying Guide for 2025
Final Thoughts
Hot tubs are investments in comfort, connection and well‑being. With proper care and a basic understanding of how they work, most problems can be solved quickly and safely. Shym Saunas & Spas believes that investing in quality time with loved ones is priceless, and a well‑maintained hot tub makes those moments possible. Keep this guide handy, follow the tips, and enjoy a warm soak whenever you need to unwind.
The target ranges and testing guidance above are drawn from the following Australian health authority and local council resources:
- Maintaining private spa pools, Queensland Health
- Private Spa Pools: A maintenance guide for owners, City of Salisbury
- Section 5 – Water Quality and Testing, WA Government Department of Health
- Water quality guidelines for public aquatic facilities, Queensland Health
- Swimming pools and spas, Health Information for Western Australians
- Residual current devices, NSW Government SafeWork
- Electrical work, NSW Government
- Electrical workers, Energy Safe Victoria
- Spa, indoor and portable pool requirements, Wagga Wagga City Council
- Spa Pools & Council Requirements, Blue Mountains City Council
- Pool safety barriers, State Government of Victoria
- RCD safety switches, WA Government
- Electrical safety requirements and consumer rights, NSW Government
Frequently Asked Questions
Error codes vary by brand, but most systems flag the same few problems: water flow, overheating, freezing conditions, or sensor faults. These are some of the most common codes you’ll see on Australian spas.
– FLO / FL (Flow problem): The controller can’t confirm steady water flow. It’s often low water level, a dirty filter, closed valves, too many closed jets, or trapped air after a refill.
– HFL / HL (Low flow while heating / high-limit trip): The heater is trying to run, but it’s not getting enough water moving through it. The spa may pause heating and try again, or shut the heater down until the flow issue is fixed.
– OH / OHH (Overheat): The spa has detected water that’s too hot and will disable heating (and sometimes other functions) until it cools.
– ICE / FrE / Freeze protection: The system has detected possible freezing conditions and may run pumps (and sometimes heating) to protect the plumbing. It can appear overnight in colder regions.
– dY / drY / DR (Heater dry / not enough water in the heater): The heater can’t safely run because it’s not properly flooded with water. This commonly happens right after draining and refilling.
– SN / Sn1 / Sn3 / SA / SB (Sensor issue): A temperature or high-limit sensor isn’t reading correctly or has a connection fault. This usually needs a technician once basic checks are done.
Quick rule: if you see a code, note it down, then start with the basics (water level, clean filter, open valves/jets). If the code returns after a reset, it’s time for a spa technician (and for anything inside the control pack, a licensed electrician).
An airlock is trapped air in the plumbing that blocks circulation. It most often shows up right after a drain and refill.
Common signs:
– The pump runs or hums, but little to no water comes out of the jets
– Jets sputter, push mostly air bubbles, or fade out quickly
– The spa won’t heat, or you see a flow-related code (like FLO)
– You can hear the pump working, but the tub feels “dead” (no real circulation)
A quick check: Look at the water surface near the return. If there’s no steady movement, the system may not be circulating.
If it happens after a refill, clearing an airlock is usually straightforward: power off at the switchboard, then bleed air from the pump (many spas have a bleed valve, or you can carefully crack a pump union until air hisses out and water starts to flow).
Most hot tub problems come down to water balance and water flow. The big ones we see most often are:
– Dirty or undersized filters: This is a classic. Flow drops, heaters shut off, and error codes appear.
– Low water level (or a slow leak you haven’t noticed yet): A small drop can trigger flow faults, noisy pumps, and heating cut-outs.
– Airlocks after refilling: Pumps can’t prime properly, so circulation is weak or stops altogether.
– Water chemistry drift: Cloudy water, foaming, strong smells, and scale build-up usually trace back to sanitiser, pH, alkalinity, and hardness being out of range.
– Scale in the heater (hard water areas): Scale acts like an insulator. Heating becomes inconsistent and safety sensors may trip.
– Pump wear: Bearings get noisy, seals start to weep, and vibration shows up over time.
– Sensors and flow switches: Temperature sensors, pressure switches, and flow sensors can fail or misread when flow is borderline.
– Electrical faults: Moisture, corrosion, or failing components can trip the RCD (safety switch). Repeated trips aren’t something to ignore.
If you’re doing just one “prevention habit,” make it this: keep filters clean and keep water chemistry steady. Those two steps prevent a surprising number of call-outs.
Hot tub heaters are designed to shut down early if something looks unsafe. In most cases, the heater is protecting itself from low flow or overheating.
Here are the most common causes, in the order they’re worth checking:
1. Restricted water flow (most common): A dirty filter, closed valves, blocked suction, or too many closed jets can reduce flow through the heater. The system may heat for a short time, then stop and retry.
2. Airlock or pump not fully primed: After refilling, trapped air can stop proper circulation. The heater will back off because it can’t confirm water moving through the heater tube.
3. Low water level: If the water drops below the skimmer/suction level, the spa can pull air and the heater will cycle off.
4. Overheat/high-limit event: If water isn’t moving enough, the heater area can get hot quickly and trip the high-limit sensor. Some spas also overheat in hot weather if pumps run for long periods with the cover on.
5. Scale build-up on the heater element: Hard water can coat the element. Heating becomes patchy and sensors can trip more often.
6. Sensor or flow switch problems: If flow and water level are fine but the heater still cuts out, a sensor or switch may be misreading and needs testing.
What to do:
– Clean the filter (or test briefly with the filter out, if your spa manual allows it).
– Confirm water level is correct and all valves are fully open.
– Open all jets and try a fresh heat cycle.
If you’ve just refilled, clear any airlock and re-prime the pump.
If the heater keeps shutting off and you’re seeing repeating error codes, book a spa technician. If the spa is tripping the RCD, switch it off and call a licensed electrician.




